Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.